The elegantly juicy Chepsangor is back, and it’s something of a miracle. Two years had gone well with exporter Vava Coffee and Chepsangor Hills Estate, so ideas were flowing when we visited producers Rosebella and Sammy Langat last May. Learning their standard fermentation for washed coffee was just 12 hours (compared to 24-48 hours seen at similar altitudes in Kenya), we saw a chance to heighten complexity without radical changes. Rosebella and mill manager Geoffrey created this lot just for Square Mile with 48 hours of fermentation after de-pulping. All was set —then regulations for Kenyan coffee changed overnight, halting the country’s industry for months. Sammy, Rosebella, Vava, and our buyer Jamie moved mountains to export this lot from Kenya. It’s one of the only early-crop Kenyan coffees around this season, and in our opinion one of the most enjoyable.